![]() ![]() If you block that pan up so it sits level and put 4 or 5 quarts of water in the rear sump, it will flow into the front sump. The front sump is just to make room for the oil pump. I can't remember if they used 5 or 6 quarts of oil in those because the oil in the front sump basically sits there. ![]() Then I put the adapter back on over the rivets and brazed it on including the rivets. I left the rivets in to avoid putting anything in the pan. Later on, when I worked on used cars that were out of warranty and had a leaky riveted on tube adapter, I would remove the adapter by grinding the rivet heads off to get the gasket out. That's likely why they put it in the block. Ford paid a lot of warranty money to have them changed. When I worked at a Ford Dealer in 79 and 80, we changed a lot of those pans that had a riveted on dipstick because they leaked. It is possible that the static fill results in the same distribution between the sumps and I am overthinking this matter. Once the 'quart low' level has been established, add the final quart and repeat the process. Whereas, just filling it in static condition might not duplicate the distribution of oil between the two sumps that occurs when running. That way, it would have achieved it's 'natural' oil level under normal operating conditions. Consequently, it seems to me it might be preferable to follow Benno's suggestion about putting in one less quart than capacity, but run the engine before marking the dip stick. The small front sump will retain some oil all the time and has it's own drain plug. Having examined the pan configuration, I would offer a thought for consideration when calibrating the dipstick. I knew the dip stick has to be addressed but hadn't gotten there yet. This's is a very timely discussion as I am currently involved in swapping to the double sump pan on a 289 for installation in a '50 Ford. ![]()
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